Submit HDR

When you have learnt something new, which has helped you to achieve a result you like (or even proud of), most likely you would like to share it.

This is the place where you can do just that. Please submit your best realistic HDR images, and we shall select the best of them and then create your personal showcase here. Make sure to include your Name, your website URL and any other information (you can also add a little story about yourself ) that you want to appear on  ”Readers Showcase” gallery.

Please use the form below to submit your images. Do not submit hi-res images, as they will be rejected. The native size of the gallery is 800×533 1000×670 pixels, but larger images will be resized for you automatically.

Important:

please make sure your submissions meet the following criteria :

  1. Supply technical info from the shot, such as: how many exposures were taken, what Ev step in between, etc
  2. Only true HDR from multiple exposures images can be posted here. If you have a cool looking fake HDR, and want to talk about it, please submit to “Discuss it“.

Thank you!

Alex & Genia

241 thoughts on “Submit HDR

  1. Here is another one I did recently. It is an abandoned Roller Coaster in Southern Missouri. I think I might be getting a Little better. 5 photos on my new Sony A77 Photomatix and then used Lightroom and Photoshop to tweak it.

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    • Very dramatic shot, a little bit too much on my taste, but it looks balanced. Halo around trees are not good: this is what photomatix does, and it should be removed in photoshop. BTW, this is one of the topics we cover in the book;-)

  2. Taken at my local park. It’s nice to be able to find something beautiful in an area most would not expect more than swings and slides. The park itself only has a few photogenic places, and I believe I captured the best in this photo. I have a Canon Powershot S2 IS. I used 3 exposures (-2 ev, 0 ev, +2ev) using the auto bracket feature on the camera. I use a program called Fusion for tone mapping and HDR effects. Hope you enjoy.

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  3. This photo was taken with my Motorola Bravo using an HDR app that I found the android app market. There were three exposures taken for this picture and no post editing of it. I found this in a garden at my school and thought it was kind of cool. I am not an experienced photographer by any means I simply shoot for fun… anyways just thought I would share

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  4. An image of Cronulla, a southern beach side suburb of Sydney, Australia (where I live). This is taken from the north looking south back along the main beach to the main centre.

    This is my first attempt at HDR. It uses 3 exposures 0, +1, and -1EV. Exported from Lightroom in to Photomatix Pro using its default settings. Readjusted mainly to improve the saturation and exposure. imported back into Lightroom for final adjustments and cropping

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  5. i took this at an old broadcastingstation in Erching/near Munich Germany. Details: ISO 100, EV -3/+3, f 8, Photomatix and Photoshop. Hope you like the surrealistiv look of these forgotten place.

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    • Geo,
      Interesting shot and unusual color, but honestly I do not see HDR here. you had +-3 Ev 3 exposures? Wondering why windows are completely overexposed. If you did it for purpose, why you did 3 exposures? I think this image can be done with one raw shot and tone mapping applied to it.
      Again, not saying it is bad or such, but this is not an HDR (high dynamic range image). this is a TM (tonemaped) image. :-)
      Thank you!

    • Carson,
      Cool set, very realistic and good looking HDRs. let em give you few suggestions on how I would improve shots:
      Fist from the bottom: It would look better if horizon won’t be in the middle. I know how it is hard to select between nice water and beautiful sky, and usually I go lower to water and raise camera to get more sky.

      Second:This one is really good, but because it luck subject in front, I’ll do the same: get closer to a water so it will be more waves, etc visible.

      Third: horizon line is falling. .. This must be fixed before you submit it to anywhere:-)

      Thank you!

  6. HDR created from single raw file. Using Aperture 3 I created a -2 & +2 exposure then the image was processsed with Photomatix Pro creating the HDR. The photo was then processed in Color Efex Pro

    Taken with Nikon D2x with a Nikkor (DX)10.5mm Fisheye lens during my deployment while I served in the Marine Corps.

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  7. This is another photograph from a series of images I captured at the Fort Langley National Historic Site in British Columbia. I decided to turn this image into a monochrome to capture the feel of history.

    The original colour photograph consisted of 5 bracketed shots at -2,-1,0,+1,+2 and processed in Photomatix and PS5 with some Nik filters including Silver Efex Pro2. The monochrome image from Photoshop was loaded into DxO Filmpack 3 to get the toning. I couldn’t quite get what I wanted with the Nik toning filters so I used DxO to finish this image.

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    • Peter,
      I never was a fun of B/W, but here I think you’ve got the atmosphere and history feeling.. Did you try to add some wooden-warmish color hue to it? It may look even more interesting after this..
      Thank you!

      • I tried other colours but was not happy with most of them. I have attached the original colour HDR and I think that between the monochrome and colour versions, the monochrome has a much better presentation.

        I could have gone further with the colour version but I just felt that B&W would be better.

        I have attached the colour version up to the point where I stopped and converted to a mono image.

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  8. This is not a true HDR, but I wanted to show you how you can still extrapolate information out of a single image jpg. This image was shot in 2005 in Italy with my then Nikon D70. I was running out of memory cards and switched to JPG– I kick myself for not shooting this in raw! How did I do it? I enhanced the single image, saved it as a TIFF, then made 4 more exposures in EV 1 stops (over and under) saving each as a new TIFF. Then in I used NIK HDR Effex to create my pseudo HDR. In Photoshop I took the enhanced best exposure into Color Effex Pro and further enhanced it using Tonal Contrast. I used the sky from that image, & further post processing to get this look.

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    • Ooops, I uploaded the painterly version of this above. I usually do multiple versions after I get my first finished HDR. The one above I finished as a painterly look look using Alien Skins Oil Painting. Below is the original, unedited jpg and my finished pseudo HDR realistic image.

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      • Barb,
        Thank you for the example.
        I am completely agree with you: Multiple exposure is not needed in many situations. For example, for your image: there was no direct sun and deep shadows, sky was not extremely bright (comparing to a ground), therefore one shot (EVEN JPEG) shot was enough to get most of the DR of the scene. it may not have all the details 9when looked at 100% crop), but for web it looks great.
        This is not HDR, as all the processing you did did not add any dynamic range to a image, but added the same tone mapped effect as we see in many HDRs.

        For some reason, many photographers seeing HDR equals to a tone mapping, but it is not. I remember 5 years ago we were using multiple exposures technique to crate an image without any HDR processor appl and tone mapping filter, but we used a masking technique to combine different parts of the image from bracketed shots in one. It was HDR, but it does not look like modern HDRs at all.

        P.S: you know what I would only would do to your image to make it look better: straighten the vertical lines:-)

  9. This is the watchtower at the Grand Canyon. I had just got my first DSLR, a Nikon D3100, a week before so I was still learning how to use it! I didn’t really know about HDR when I took this so it was only one shot at f/9, 1/400 sec, ISO 100. I faked 3 exposures in Camera RAW of the original and a +2 and -2, then processed in Photomatix. There was a bright blue ladder in the lower right corner that I took out in Photoshop using the spot healing brush. Some other color adjustments were done, but I don’t remember exactly what. Hope you like it!

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    • Shawn,
      Nice photo, and it looks like there was no needed HDR (i mean multiple exposures) technique to get it done.
      What you’ve got is not HDR, but just a “regular DR” image:-) Nothing wrong with this, just has nothing to do with HDR processing. You cna’t “fake” 10-12 F stop dynamic range…
      See my comment to Barb Cochran’s image:-)

  10. Wagons in a field in Concord, Massachusetts. This is a 3-exposure (-2,0,+2 EV) image shot at 18mm, ISO 200. Processed using Photomatix, Topaz Adjust, and Photoshop CS4.

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    • Jose,
      It looks pretty spectacular, but I think you overdone it too much to be called “realistic” . I’d call it “HDRish” :-)
      may be it it too much tone mapping in Photomatix, or somewhere else.. not sure.

      When we do our HDRs, the are very plain looking after Photomatix. We add saturation and other enhancements only in Photoshop, when working with hi-res (8bit, or better-> 16bit) TIFF file from Photomatix.
      Thank you!

      • Thanks for the response Alex! My tonemapped images from Photomatix are also plain and flat. It’s in Topaz Adjust where I add more pop and vibrance to the image. I was curious to see how close to “realistic” you would consider it.

        Thanks for the comment and for everything you do for the HDR community. I truly enjoy your work.

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  11. 5 shot HDR, 1 EV difference, handheld
    This is the main lobby of the training college of Emirates Airlines, located in Dubai.
    As soon as I saw this last week I was reminded of Alex’s work in interiors and decided to give it a go. Fortunately for me the place was spotless and all I needed to do was compose

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  12. This is Kilve beach, in Somerset, UK, near dusk. EV was -2,0,+2, and the lens is a Tamron Aspherical LD XR DiII SP 17-50mm, with a Hoya cir-polarizing filter, at f/32 using a tripod, with a 17mm focal length, on a Canon EOS 60D. The 3 images were merged to a single image and tone-mapped using SNS-HDR (as I prefer, in general, the results from SNS-HDR compared to Photomatix).

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  13. Hi,
    I’m a amateur photographer based in Canada. I’m slowly working on developing skills and eventually a own style. I like doing night HDR and B&W photos. You can see more of my work on G+ https://plus.google.com/111005570197962924384 or my web http://www.boismenu.com/wpfotos

    I was driving back home on a weekend and stopped in this Tim Hortons place. I wanted to capture the contrast between the sunset sky colors and the big red sign. I had my family begging to leave so I took three exposures as fast as I can. Only if they could understand how important is to shoot :-)

    I used the following process:

    1. Import to PS to align and apply denoise (Topaz) to individual shots. The exported as tiff.
    2. Tonemapped in Photomatix
    3. Back to PS to do some local adjust, blended using layers the 0ev on the bottom part and -1ev on the red sign.

    Three exposures in raw, -1, 0 and +1ev. I used a Canon XS, standard Canon 18-55 lens and tripod. Shooted at 20mm, f11, ISO 100.

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    • Pierre ,
      I think you would benefit if instead of 1Ev step you’ll use 2Ev: it will give you more DR and room for manipulation. Also, learn how to straighten photos like this: it is easy , we have a post on our PP blog:
      Lens distortion and perspective correction in architecture photography
      Things like straight lines is what separates pro from an amateur:-)

      Also, you need to think more about the composition. What that piece of a bike is doing here? :-)
      Keep it going, and i wish you good luck. Just keep it going, do not stop.

      • Thanks Alex!
        I never though about correcting the distortion, but I see what you mean. New task ahead! :-) thanks for your tip!
        I knew about the bike, I took the shots in less than 2 min and after that I did not bother cloning it out in PS. My fault. I’m not happy with other parts of the composition, like the withe car at the right and dark one at the left side.
        But on this one shot I applied some tricks for noise reduction and for that I’m happy. As you say, keep learning and learning.

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      • I straightened the building and removed the bike. I can see how it improves :-)
        Next time I’ll remember to shoot with 2ev
        Thanks again!!

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    • Rene, you forgot to add a tech data: how many exposures, what Ev step, what software it was assembled in.
      As for the image: beautiful view, great execution, but you forgot about halos.. Look at the center and right hill: you’ve got nasty halo over there. Looks like you did not read the book, we have this covered very well:-)
      In any case, thank you!

        • Rene,
          yep, this is what I’ve expected. 1 RAW file has nothing to do with High dynamic range images, as it has only standard camera dynamic range, which is far from what we consider “High”. Regardless of processing you do.

          HDR is not tone mapped image, but the one with much wider DR than any particular camera can produce in a single shot. I have more about this on my pixiq.com article: http://www.pixiq.com/article/creating-realistic-hdrs

          Do not get me wrong: your images are good, and they a living proof of that the multiple exposures HDR is not needed in many situations, when single shot will do the job..
          But here we need a true high dynamic range stuff.

          • I don’t want to disagree with you, because you’re the one with more experience in HDR.

            I also missed the concept here. I came from another site via a link to this section of your site. And I thought it is a community for “all” kind of HDR. I should have read better before post.

            Also I don’t work long with HDR and I still searching for the right way to do it. The first thing I read about HDR, was about making them out of one single RAW file. And so I did it.

            Thanks to you I know now, I wasn’t on the right way. But I’m willing to learn. I’d like to read your book but I don’t know if it is the right for me. I’m a Linux user and using the native programs there. I don’t know if these programs are subject in the book. It doesn’t help me to read about how it is made in Photomatix or in Photoshop when I can’t reproduce it.

            So I hope my new picture fits in more here. It is made out of about 40 RAW files in qtpfsgui. This is just a test picture. Please no complaints about the motif (I didn’t care about it).

            It was a very windy day, so the clouds look a bit funny and the trees are a bit blurry. The sun was behind the clouds in the bright spot over the mountain.

            I’d like to hear your opinion about the pic for further improvements.

            Thanks.

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          • Rene,
            Wow.. wow! 40 RAW files? Please tell me how did you shoot them. what Ev step in between.. if yo have any bracketing at all: sky is still burned out, and 40 exposures should give you much more dynamic range than you ever needed.
            So, please tell me how did you shoot them. very interesting to know.
            As for the book: yes, we use Photoshop and Photomatix, so it may not work for you now. I guess you can learn HDR by posting here:-)

          • I shot them with the range of the time settings from 10 (i think) seconds to 1/4000 second. The EV range was -10 EV to +3.96 EV according to qtpfsgui.

            I think the sky is to bright because of the too long exposures. I believe there were to many shots too bright. The next time I try to start with an exposure of 1 Second or less. Or I try to look what the camera would make in automatic mode, take this as reference and increase and decrease time. Or I try the exposure correction from -2 to +2 EV. There’s so much to try out.

            Thanks for your help.

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  14. Less realistic than my other one (The tree) but I really like its atmosphere. This was shot at 3 exposures (-3,-1,1) facing the sun (that’s why I’ve got flares in front of the house) and with a lot of smog.

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      • Thanks… :) how would you’ve done the composition? More or less of something? Should I have been closer to the puddle? Just been doing this for a couple of months so I try to learn the composition part… :) The technical stuff is easy since I work with computers.. :)

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  15. This is a full 360° spherical HDR Panorama projected as a ‘little planet’.
    The panorama consists of 6 brackets at +30°, 6 brackets at -30°, 1 bracket for the zenith, 1 for the nadir and a final one where I moved the tripod so that I could also capture the area right below my feet. Each bracket consists of seven images at 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2, 4, 8 seconds. That makes 105 source images. All images are taken at 8mm, f/6.7 and ISO200 on my Nikon D90. Stitched and processed in ptgui 9 and tonemapped in photomatix 4.
    Have phun…

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  16. Rockmill Bridge, Hocking Hills, OH. 3 exposures(0,-1, and +1). A canon Rebel T1i was used with the stock 18-55mm lens(37 mm) using a nd filter. Auto bracketing was used with shutter priority at half a second for each picture. Iso was set at 100 and HDR was done in Photomatix and processing done in Photoshop.

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    • Mark,
      This one looks very natural, well done HDR. The only suggestion I have is that it might look better if composed differently: more sky, less water. Also, with 1Ev step you did not get enough DR, the rock might be too dark (I expect it to be noisy on 100% crop).. this is why it looks very natural. :-)

  17. This was one of my first attempts at HDR. Looking into the bright sunset with the dark water of the harbour. Probably should have taken more exposures?

    3 Raw Exposure, 2Ev step, Photomatix 3 + Lightroom.

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    • Alistair,
      Yep, if I’d do this shot, I would do more exposures in “+” side, so the trees and other stuff would be exposed correctly. You can always make it darker, if needed, but it is good to have super bright exposures as well.
      BTW, when shooting against bright sly, quite often i start bracketing sequence from +2 Ev..

  18. Did you mean “realistic HDR” ? ;) This is a 4 exposures shot at 2ev each. With the sun coming from right side of the photo it wouldn’t be possible without HDR. Very simple, very natural and realistic !

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  19. Just had to set up and shoot it as HDR
    Using a Nikon 200 Using three Raw images
    Three exposures, -2, 0, 2
    Tone mapped in Photomatix.
    Retouch processing was done in Photoshop.

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    • Jose,
      Wow, really nice! For some reason it gives me a feeling of an old postcard. Love the colors. Thank you for the great example!

  20. Vista House on the Columbia River Gorge, Oregon over looking the Columbia River and Washington State. The image screamed “HDR” to me (not that I could’ve shot it any other way). It was a bone chilling cold and damp day. The snow began to fall as I made my way back to Portland. Shot with Nikon, 9 exposures EV1, HDR conversion Photomatix Pro, post processing in Photoshop.

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  21. I was captivated by this scene. The cleared path remains a mystery as to why and whom mowed it. My imagination ran wild. I desperately wanted to follow the path but the fact I was in flip flops and I had all ready encountered some rattle snakes prevented me from venturing deeper in to the mysterious path. I don’t much care for venomous snakes. The history of this old house is very colorful. In the 1920′s and 30′s a pair of spinster old maid sisters lived in the house. It was rumored that they kidnapped a young man and kept him there as their love slave.

    This image was captured with Nikon, 9 exposures, EV 1 stop between, converted to HDR using Photomatix Pro, post processing Photoshop.

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  22. Here is one that is liked by a lot of people. I think the picture is slightly boring but what ya going to do. I am posting this because you said you aren’t a fan of dark skies ;-P Again, 12 exposures with 1/3 stops photomatix lightroom and Sony a33. I tried making the same image with 2/3 stops and only 3 images but it came out blotchy in the sky area (graying) Thank You Again! If you want, I will post the “bad” ones if you want.

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  23. Here is one of a barn. I took 18 Images to create this with 1/3 between each stop. imported to lightroom and made the colors as clear as I could. We were in the middle of a developing storm so the clouds actually looked that way! Thank you for the Opportunity!

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    • Wow, 18 images? This is insane:-) I mean HDR came out very good (expet dark sky, i never can get why you guys like it that dark).
      Great looking HDR, but next time you can achieve the same result by taking 3 exposure with 2Ev step in between. Dynamic range will be the same as you had with 18 exposures and 1/3Ev step.

      • The dark sky is natural. There was a storm rolling through. the clouds were very dark. You can see bright blue poking through. I tried doing the 3 images thing and they never come out right. there are dark smudges all over the place. Can you help?

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        • Well, if it was like this i cna’t help. And in this case it is not need to be fixed, as you just captured the sky.
          However, in other situations, when sky is not that dark, but getting darkened in photomatix.. I’ll ask Genia to contribute on this, as she is my post production guru, but i am sure the answer would be like this: do not try to make vivid looking image in Photomatix, do it in Photoshop instead. Photomatix is good for stitching images, but you do not need to get the image fully adjusted in it. it won’t be able to make it realistic. Photoshop is for this.
          Actually, how to use this technique is what we are showing in the book.:-)

          • I will have to get it! I have MINIMAL photoshop skills.. I am hoplessly lost at working over things in CS3. I cant afford to upgrade to CS5. LightRoom is great though. Thank you!

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  24. This is one of my earlier HDR photos taken last March at sunrise near a local river in the Heber Valley of Utah. Taken with a Canon 7D, ISO 100, 21mm at f/16, three shot bracket at -2Ev, 0Ev, & +2Ev. This was processed with Photomatix and Photoshop CS5. (Also find me on Google+)

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  25. Taken 8-Oct-2011 with a Canon EOS Rebel XSi (450D), with the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS kit lens (18mm). Three exposures (0,+2,-2) starting with 1/60 sec at f/11, and ISO-200. Processed with Photomatix & Photoshop.

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